Propagating San Pedro and Other Trichocereus From Cuttings

One of the best parts about trichocereus pachanoi, bridgesii, peruvianus and related green columnar cactus is that they are easily cloned via cuttings.

Cuttings are beneficial because they copy the exact genetics of the parent place – unlike seeds, which always come from a cross In the case of trichocereus. 

Here's 3-step process for trichocereus propagation:

Take a cutting

• find a healthy plant that is at least 12" tall (taller is better)
• take at least a 6" cutting – the longer the cutting, the more energy the plant has to root
• cut diagonally with a sharp knife or razor (avoiding areoles/spines if possible) so the remaining stump does not retain water, which will lead to rot
• waiting until the parent plant is tall and healthy will help ensure the long-term health of your stand – I like to wait until the segment is at least 36" tall so I can take both a top cutting and a log cutting (as well as leaving the stump)

Heal the cutting

• allow the cut end to harden without letting any pathogens take hold by leaving the cut end open to circulating air
• a good rule of thumb is one week of drying per inch of diameter
• outside – place on a balcony or other covered area so as to not overexpose to sun
• inside – place with cut end exposed to air circulation (e.g. a fan)
• a well-healed cutting is dry and hard to the touch, white/cream colored and free of weird moldy colors or textures. (If it is a little moldy, simply wipe it off – don't worry about cutting it again unless actually gets inside the plant and causes rot, which is soft to the touch)

Root the cutting

• create a perlite heavy soil mix (75-100% perlite) to allow air circulation and space for roots to grow
• (optionally) apply rooting hormone powder to the cut end (note that I don't do this as some of these products may be toxic)
• place the cutting a few inches into the soil, which is unlikely to support the plant on its own – the important part is that the bottom doesn't see sun
• absolutely don't water the plants in this phase! if rot occurs, slice again

Plant the cutting

• once you see evidence of root structures popping through the epidermis or at the cut end, the plant is ready for a richer soil mix and water
• plant into your desired soil mix (if simply potting soil and perlite, something like 50/50)
• It's a new plant now! Water your plant and repeat when the soil is fully dry in the summer (monthly or less in the winter)

Watch: San Pedro Mastery: Potting A Peruvian Torch for Maxium Roots